Help / F.A.Q.s

Question:

What decal softening solution should I use for Scale Motorsport decals?

Answer:   

We recommend using Microscale’s “Micro-Set” softening solution, the bottle with the “blue” writing. DO NOT USE Microscale’s “Micro-Sol” at any time, before, during or after! Check out our How To video on carbon fiber decaling to gain further expertise about applying carbon fiber decals.

MOST IMPORTANT: once the decal(s) appear to be fully set, remember moisture has been trapped underneath the decal and on top of the plastic surface. Even though the decal may appear to be dry on top, it can take several days for all the trapped moisture to fully dissipate. You need to wait several days for all the trapped moisture to dissipate before applying any clear-coats. You can speed up the drying of the decal and dissipate the trapped moisture faster by placing the decaled parts in a food dehydrator for 24 to 48 hours.

Question:

How should I prep the surface for carbon fiber decaling?

Answer:

A few simple coats of semi gloss black or grey are all you need, nothing more, no undercoat underneath the semi gloss finish is required. But do make sure the surface of the plastic prior to paint has been smoothed out and cleaned up of all debris prior to painting.


Question:
What’s the best way to clear-coat decals? 

Answer:

My favorite clear-coat is the floor cleaning liquid called “Future” straight from the bottle into your airbrush. Future is a water based solution so it has no chemicals that can attack your decaled surface. If you don’t have an airbrush my next recommendation is to use any enamel based rattle can clear-coat. The third option and the last one I would recommend would be any “lacquer-based” clear-coat. Lacquers are “hot” and if not applied properly can “eat” at the decal. If you have to use a lacquer based clear-coat make sure to apply it in several “mist coats” allowing them to fully dry before laying down a final wet coat.

MOST IMPORTANT: once the decal(s) appear to be fully set, remember moisture has been trapped underneath the decal and on top of the plastic surface. Even though the decal may appear to be dry on top, it can take several days for all the trapped moisture to fully dissipate. You need to wait several days for all the trapped moisture to dissipate before applying any clear-coats. You can speed up the drying of the decal and dissipate the trapped moisture faster by placing the decaled parts in a food dehydrator for 24 to 48 hours.

Question:
What type of glue should I use on Scale Motorsport photoetch?

Answer:

Only use a “non-fogging” CA glue, almost any brand will work fine, just make sure it says it is “non-fogging”. Note that different brands vary in viscosity some are thin or very runny while others are thicker. At times, depending on the parts being glued you will want to use a thinner viscosity verses a thicker one, which one you need will depend on practice and experience.


Question:
What makes Scale Motorsport photoetch different than other company’s photoetch?

Answer:

There are two basic differences, one has to do with the type of material used for our photoetch products and the second difference is how we attach the parts to the trees. Most, not all of our photoetch products are made from Nickel Silver a softer, easier material to work with when cutting parts off trees. The other photoetch products such as our tools (scriber blades and saw blades) use stainless steel. All our photoetch parts are “double-etched” at the points of attachment making their removal with an Xacto blade a real breeze.